Keeping Pythons

Australian pythons are becoming increasingly popular as pets. This information will introduce you to some of their basic requirements. It is not possible to cover all aspects of husbandry and certainly not breeding in this introductory 'Care Sheet'. However this sheet is designed to give a quick overview of the most common snakes.
All pythons are non-venomous, having curved solid teeth. Nevertheless some of the larger species can inflict a painful bite. Treatment for such wounds would be basic first aid and cleansing with Dettol, Betadine etc. as per instructions.

The species most commonly kept in Victoria are (in order), the Children's Python Group (Spotted Pythons, Children's Pythons & Stimson's Pythons), Carpet and Diamond Pythons, Water Pythons, Olive Pythons, Amethystine Pythons and Black-headed Pythons.

Most people start with one of the Children's Python Group. They are a hardy snake in captivity, generally good feeders, good temperament and grow to a little over a metre. They are generally available all year round.
The Carpet and Diamond Pythons grow in excess of two metres, with the Carpet being the more readily obtainable. Temperament varies with individuals but generally a well balanced species.

The Water Python may also exceed 2 metres and doesn't as the name implies, require any more water than the other species. Its nature can vary from very placid to one of extremely snappy. Generally available most of the year. The Olive Python is the choice of the larger pythons. It generally has a placid temperament and can reach a body length of 2 metres in its first two years. 4 metre specimens are not uncommon. Very hardy in captivity and a good feeder. Available mainly Feb - June, depending on numbers bred.

The Amethystine Python is for the more gamely. A beautiful python that can exceed 5 metres in length. It has a disposition that is not suited for keepers who do not wish to be bitten. A quiet 'Scrubby' comes along occasionally, but more often the reverse is the ‘norm’. Scrubbies are not commonly available.

The Black-headed Python is more difficult to come by, grows to approx. 2 metres, has a good disposition and does well in captivity.

When choosing your first python make inquiries, and if in doubt, on any issue, contact a fellow keeper, Herpetological Society or your local dealer. It is good practice to see the snake of your choice being fed before purchase. Remember, the larger or the prettiest does not necessarily mean the best purchase.

The size of the cage required depends on the species and length of the snake. There is no set formula for this and it is better to be advised on the particular specimen than to go through all species here. A one metre snake does not necessarily require a one metre cage. Although glass aquariums are not generally recommended, they can be used if certain conditions apply. The disadvantage with an all glass aquarium is that the heat disperses too easily during the winter months and also may present some problems with wiring the thermostat, lights etc. A wooden cage with a glass front is more desirable and should be painted and sealed with a good quality paint. Heating can be supplied by means of incandescent light bulbs correctly wired to a thermostat to control the cage temperature. Other means of heating are available such as hot rocks, heating mats etc. but discuss this further with us before you proceed. The desired maximum temperature for most pythons is around 300 C. Where possible give the specimen the opportunity to move around the cage to allow it to seek variance of temperature. Good ventilation is also necessary but should be placed in a position where cold drafts will not be entering the warm cage over the colder months. It is best that water is available to the snake at all times and this should be in a non-spillable container varying in size according to the specimen being kept. The floor of the cage can be covered with anything from clean newspaper to washed (but dry) aquarium gravel. This can be changed as it becomes soiled. Cage furnishings are up to the individual and do not necessarily do anything for the reptile. A hiding spot, such as a hollow log or constructed hide box will facilitate your pythons needs for privacy. Normally room lighting is sufficient to throw some light into your cage and in most cases special lighting such as Ultra-Violet is not required although at present it is being used with some success with Diamond Pythons and will definitely do no harm to your snake.

Feeding once a week is regarded as pretty normal for most pythons and no need to panic if you miss the odd week or two. It is good to take some of the more mature specimens off their food over the winter months and go through a bit of 'natural semi-hibernation'. Feed the snake on what food items were suggested to you on purchase, be careful in the case of young individuals not to offer too large a food item. Most pythons will readily accept mice or rats but some may prefer items such as birds, guinea pigs or rabbits. Shedding of the skin comes with growth and will be more regular in younger specimens. Avoid handling or feeding your snake when it is preparing to slough. Also avoid handling your snake after it has been fed.
Never place your pet snake in the unshaded area of a backyard leaving it to 'cook' in the extremes of the suns radiation. The same applies to transporting your snake anywhere by car. Reptiles cannot control their body temperature if placed in a position where their body temperature is governed by unnatural influences. Do not use fly sprays or other similar products near your reptile or cage.

Suggested further reading: 'Care Of Australian Reptiles In Captivity', John Weigel
"Care Of Australian Pythons",by Geordie Torr "Pythons of Australia", Brian Kend.